Bleeding clutch

[arendsg]

How do you go about bleeding the clutch on a SL-2 with a DOHC?

[ssicarman]

You don't. It is a sealed system with no normal provision for bleeding the system. The ealy years had a small hex screw that some people have tried to bleed the system with but have not had long term success with as far as I know.

[RobertGary1]

Then how do you get fluid in the system after changing the master or slave?

[RalliArt16]

You purchase the clutch hydraulic system as an entire unit from the stealership.. er dealership. The clutch master cylinder and slaved cylinder come together. It is pre bled, pre filled. Its a plug and play unit.. just bolt it on and you're good to go.

[BarnOwl]

arendsg you probably bought a master or slave cylinder from a parts store. Here's what it says on Autozone's web site:

CAUTION: O.E. SYSTEM IS VERY DIFFICULT TO BLEED;
RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT WITH PRE-BLED
COMBINATION CLUTCH MASTER AND SLAVE ASSEMBLY.

The thing is that the pre-bled assembly from Autozone is more expensive than the one from Saturn.

[twosaturns]

depends on your area- all AZs and saturnstores are priced diff'ent.
one saturnfan says he can bleed 'em, I forget who though. I made an attempt or 2 on the bench, couldn't get it, but I had a good used one so I didn't try all that hard.

[Sky King]

Originally Posted by ssicarman

You don't. It is a sealed system with no normal provision for bleeding the system. The ealy years had a small hex screw that some people have tried to bleed the system with but have not had long term success with as far as I know.

I did successfully bleed the clutch on my wifes 93 SC-2 (she no longer has it). It didn't give her any further problems prior to her totalling the car which was quite some time. I haven't tried or had the need to try any of our other "S" cars.

I have heard that the hex screw that existed on early slave cyls does not exist on the later models. But again, since I have not had a problem, I have not had the need to look.

[Sky King]

Originally Posted by ssicarman

You don't. It is a sealed system with no normal provision for bleeding the system. The ealy years had a small hex screw that some people have tried to bleed the system with but have not had long term success with as far as I know.

I did successfully bleed the clutch on my wifes 93 SC-2 (she no longer has it). It didn't give her any further problems prior to her totalling the car which was quite some time. I haven't tried or had the need to try any of our other "S" cars.

I have heard that the hex screw that existed on early slave cyls does not exist on the later models. But again, since I have not had a problem, I have not had the need to look.

[mrclean92124]

Bleed Sealed master/slave in-car with no mess! Worked great 8)

Originally Posted by 00 SLow

I just finished going through hell chasing clutch problems after blowing a hole in the side of my bellhousing. After seeing lots of useful info about clutch related issues in the forum, I thought posting the directions that came with my new hydro assembly would be a be a useful addition. It's clean, dry, and doesn't require disassembling the slave.

I found it easier to bleed with the whole thing installed, with the slave hanging off the trans.

--- Twist the slave cylinder off the transmission, and point it vertically, with the pushrod facing the ground. With the cap off the reservoir, SLOWLY depress pushrod into the cylinder about an inch while watching the reservoir for bubbles. Repeat process until air bubbles no longer appear, usually about 10 to 15 strokes. With the cap still off, slowly press the pushrod in far enough to reconnect the bands on the retaining strap, if not already broken. Reinstall slave and replace the cap. Using short quick strokes, press the clutch pedal 20 to 30 times or until pedal is firm. Under normal usage, small anounts of air remaining will purge itself from the system. ---

[hartley88]

Just because the new system comes with fluid in it already doesn't mean it doesn't have air in it. I had to bleed mine. Have one person tilt (aprx 40 degrees) the master (where the fluid is insterted) and one person press in the metal piece on the slave.

[hartley88]

Originally Posted by hartley88

Just because the new system comes with fluid in it already doesn't mean it doesn't have air in it. I had to bleed mine. Have one person tilt (aprx 40 degrees) the master (where the fluid is insterted) and one person press in the metal piece on the slave.

Tilt the master with the piece that connnects to the clutch pedal tilted down towards the ground.

[BlackPlastic]

I've done 3 units so far, which wouldn't shift into gear at a stop because of lack of shift fork travel. Since the old fluid looked like crap I pumped it out and refilled it with full synthetic. You can hook up a Mity Vac to the resevoir and/or pump the slave cylinder. The Mity Vac comes in handy to get the air out of the master cylinder tho, that one you can hear the air when you pump it.

" Under normal usage, small anounts of air remaining will purge itself from the system." +1

[BlackPlastic]

I made a thread I suggested be put in the How-To section, but it got shot down for some reason.

[madpogue]

A brand new system with air in it (before installation) is, by definition, defective, and should be exchanged.