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Old 06-27-2010, 08:32 PM   #1
chingondearmona
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1995 SL2
Default input shaft nut-shaft play

Im working on changing the input shaft nut, unfortunately i couldnt find a thin wall socket anywere in town, i think ima have to put the cover back on and wait till i probably order one online, also i have a torque wrench, seems to only go up to the 85 lbs. foot, is the nut torqued in feet or inches or what? i removed the strut, brake line and engine cradle bolt. aslo once you get the cover off are the two tubes that go into both shafts suppost to wiggle around like they loose from the cover? i put the shift lever in nutral, turned the brake disk and the output shaft gear moves but when you turn it faster the output shaft nut turns faster then the gear. when you guys talk about if there is play in the output and input shaft nut, what do you mean by play? there is a slight gap of play when you turn the input shaft back n forth. but in and out i dont seem to feel a play?

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Old 06-27-2010, 10:18 PM   #2
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

If you grab the hub the input shaft nut is inside of, it should not wiggle. If it does it's loose.

A machine shop should be able to turn down the socket for you about 1/2 inch up from the bottom.

you will need a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. You seem to be describing a 3/8 drive unit. (only 85ftlbs)

Its in foot pounds.

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Old 06-28-2010, 02:16 AM   #3
chingondearmona
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

If i turn the input shaft hub counter or clock wise it wiggles before turning the output shaft gear. Is this why it use to slam? my symptoms are no reverse and stuck on first gear, before getting to this i would only have slamming reverse. after accidentally removing the tranny filter replacing it and adding the wrong fluid i finally lost reverse, and started slamming on all forward gears, till i was left with the gears that felt and sounded like 2and3 and after changing the fluid to the correct one i finally got stuck on first only. luckily i got the day off today from work as for every Monday from know till the end, im going to go early to the swap meet and see if i could find a thin wall 23mm 12 point socket laying around if not i will go to a shop to turn it down, and about the torque wrench, im going to have to rent one from autozone, which is basically like buying it but returning it for 100 bones. hopefully they dont screw me over.

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Old 06-28-2010, 04:00 AM   #4
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

turning the hub doesn't matter, its if it has play, I.E. if you can pull the hub and it moves and push and it moves. (should not feel sloppy) The in and out movement is what causes the slam (or a problem with the VB) The dead giveaway for the nut is if 2nd gear shifting is also effected. and or reverse works untill it warms up and then goes away.

The O-Rings on the piece attached to the cover that go inside the hub is how 2nd gear get enguaged. having the wrong fluid may have caused problems internally.

After you retorque the nut pull the PCM "B" fuse in the engine compartment fuse box before starting and driving. may as well retorque it weather it needs it or not since you went to the trouble.

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Old 06-28-2010, 06:36 AM   #5
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1996 SL1
Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

1/2 in. drive, 12 pt. Standard Metric Socket, 23mm

| Online only | Sears Item# 00978517000 | Model# ALN12323

This is advertised on the Sears website specifically as thin wall.

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Old 06-28-2010, 12:12 PM   #6
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

about to go to the swap meet to see if someone has a thin wall sitting around, if not ima have to go to the machine shop, quick question, i bought the new fluid with a bottle of lucas additives aside, how much of this stuff am i suppost to use, do i add it before or after? and how much fluid does the tranny take since im not replacing the filter, its fairly new, when i put it on i only took it out for a spin and the fluid that came out looked fairly clean

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Old 06-30-2010, 11:00 AM   #7
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

okay i went everywhere and nothing finally went to a napa and they said it was a thin wall but no luck, these kind of things make me wanna give up on the car, i did however tested the play on the input and output shafts and they do both have a play wich seems about no more then 1/4 of an inch im just gonna keep looking for that socket for the input nut and the output nut im just gonna tighten it. is it the same torque specs as input? also how do i stop the clutch hub from rotating counter clockwise while loosening the nut?

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Old 06-30-2010, 11:30 AM   #8
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

Quote:
Originally Posted by OU812 View Post
1/2 in. drive, 12 pt. Standard Metric Socket, 23mm

| Online only | Sears Item# 00978517000 | Model# ALN12323

This is advertised on the Sears website specifically as thin wall.
has this item been tested and does it fit?

...
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:40 AM   #9
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

I believe the outer diameter of the socket needs to be 1.2" or less. I kinda remember that figure from another thread where someone measured it.

I think I found that info when I was doing a search on auto trannies and "no reverse" symptoms. There's actually a How To (I think it's in the How To library here) that discusses the sizes of the socket.

edit: this might be the thread
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...=124800&page=2

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Old 06-30-2010, 08:23 PM   #10
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Default Re: input shaft nut-shaft play

Quote:
Originally Posted by chingondearmona View Post
okay i went everywhere and nothing finally went to a napa and they said it was a thin wall but no luck, these kind of things make me wanna give up on the car, i did however tested the play on the input and output shafts and they do both have a play wich seems about no more then 1/4 of an inch im just gonna keep looking for that socket for the input nut and the output nut im just gonna tighten it. is it the same torque specs as input? also how do i stop the clutch hub from rotating counter clockwise while loosening the nut?
A transmittion shop will be able to get you both nuts and the gasket.

If you had access to a 1/2 inch drive impact I would say to just drill the origional nuts as tight as the impact will make them..

I paid 6.20 for the input nut and 2 gaskets.

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