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Old 11-08-2008, 10:59 AM   #1
2000_SL2_DD
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Default Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

To start off I couldnt post in the how to forum.... so Ill stick it here.

Wolf man posted a good how to http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...ht=motor+mount


Tools needed: 15mm socket, 8mm socket, jack and wood block, PB blaster (or variant), carb clean (or variant to remove pb blaster), and if you like loctite it wont hurt but it is not nessacary.

OEM saturn mount: 21012185 cost me $61.34 shipped http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214643

I have pictures below of a 2 year old anchor mount that the previous owner installed and was shot from day 1 when I purchased the car as mine always rattled and I just thought... its a Saturn. Buy OEM if you plan on keeping the car so you dont have to replace it for another 80,000+ miles.

1. Start off by spraying the 5 nuts with PB blaster and waiting at least 20 min ( I went in and had breakfast).

2. Jack up motor with a block of wood on the oil pan (be gentle and raise engine just enough to take pressure off mount).

To make removal easier and not have to worry about taking out the studs, I used a KOBALT pass thru socket set I purchased from LOWES. They allow me to use a socket over any length bolt and in this case put a 15mm socket on the nuts and a 8mm on the stud end to keep it from backing out.

3. Remove 5 nuts remembering which bolt each came off and pull mount off.

4. Clean studs with carb clean or equivalent and clean off surfaces for new mount. (I added a drop of Loctite I had around to each stud)

5. Install new mount and hand thread nuts on. Tighten down mount to frame first rock engine with your hand making sure mount is near center. Proceed to tighten down 3 nuts to motor by tightening each nut a little at a time so as to keep pressure even.

6. Grab that torque wrench and make sure all nuts are around 20- 25 ft-lbs.

Remove the jack and let the loctite cure for a little while, then start your car and be amazed at how smooth and quite it will be.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg stud restraint.jpg (144.8 KB, 108 views)
File Type: jpg see thru socket.jpg (122.6 KB, 100 views)
File Type: jpg loctite ready.jpg (144.2 KB, 96 views)
File Type: jpg anchor.jpg (116.7 KB, 122 views)
File Type: jpg oem part 21012185.jpg (114.6 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg oem vs anchor.jpg (137.4 KB, 129 views)
File Type: jpg kobalt set.jpg (150.5 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg bad mount.jpg (114.3 KB, 103 views)
File Type: jpg good mount.jpg (101.5 KB, 107 views)

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Old 11-08-2008, 05:22 PM   #2
westwind999
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1999 SL2
1999 SW1
Default Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

You missed the reset of the lower mount after you change the upper one.

Otherwise a pretty good how-to. I just changed my upper mount too, I followed Richpin's Youtube video. Around the 4 minute mark he shows the lower mount info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zaugUfILmGE

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Old 11-11-2008, 07:55 PM   #3
bobbyrae
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Default Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

This thing about jacking on the oil pan is completely unnecessary. The SSM suggests that you place a 3/4" piece of wood under that lower strut (that Richpin retightens). This holds the engine in place while replacing the upper mount. I've done it this way and found it so much easier and quicker.

...
Bobby Rae
Alameda, CA
1993 SL2 A/T, 78k miles, 22/33/43 mpg
1982 Accord 5-speed, 302k miles, 23/32/40 mpg

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Old 11-12-2008, 05:07 PM   #4
BlueDemon
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Default Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

Why did richpin have to loosen and ten retighten the dogboen mount?

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Old 11-12-2008, 05:55 PM   #5
bobbyrae
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Default Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueDemon View Post
Why did richpin have to loosen and ten retighten the dogboen mount?
SSM chassis manual, page 111:

"2. Loosen the two engine strut bracket-to-cradle fasteners to remove any fore/aft preload from the engine strut.

3. Tighten the engine strut barcket-to-cradle fasteners.

torque: 37 ft-lbs."

The torque values are important. BTW, here's where you put that wood block:


...
Bobby Rae
Alameda, CA
1993 SL2 A/T, 78k miles, 22/33/43 mpg
1982 Accord 5-speed, 302k miles, 23/32/40 mpg

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Old 11-12-2008, 06:20 PM   #6
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Default Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

I'm a little dense, so why does he have to retighten the lower strut mount?

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Old 11-12-2008, 06:55 PM   #7
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Default Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

The engine transmission is supported by the lower trans mount and the upper engine mount. There is not supposed to be any preload on the struts. The bolts that are to be loosened allows the bracket to move.

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Old 11-17-2008, 11:59 PM   #8
2000_SL2_DD
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Thumbs Up Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

Thats a better idea than jacking up on the oil pan. I just got out there and wam bam installed the mount as I did a couple years ago to a 94 grandam. 2 weeks now and the mount only has a very small gap between the rubber and steel and the car is still purring quietly.

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Old 11-30-2008, 12:14 PM   #9
Melissa_M
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Default Re: Upper motor mount replacement made easier with pictures

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyrae View Post
This thing about jacking on the oil pan is completely unnecessary. The SSM suggests that you place a 3/4" piece of wood under that lower strut (that Richpin retightens). This holds the engine in place while replacing the upper mount. I've done it this way and found it so much easier and quicker.
Thanks for all the photos!

So with the wood block under the dogbone, you don't need to jack it up at all?

Melissa_M

...
1999 SL2 MANUAL

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