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Old 01-19-2012, 02:54 PM   #1
Jax_1995_SL1
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1995 SL1
Default Hood Release Cable Repair Question

The cable to my hood release latch is on it's last legs. I've searched the forums, and was unable to see a walkthough or universal answer to replacement / repair.

I'm pretty certain I need to replace the entire cable, because is has become excessively hard to pull open using a set of vice grips. I literally have to put all of my body weight into pressing down for my hood lock to release/pop.

I normally would just try to tighten the slack and place the end back in the hood release latch. I don't think this will work, now, because there's so much resistance in the line that the original plastic latch doesn't have enough pulling power...

Living in Florida (the Rustbelt) is it plausible that some rust or aging has occured somewhere in the line, and the rust has caused some sort of obstruction with extra resistance? I can almost imagine a segment of the intertwined metal fibers coming loose and snagging on the cable's outer lining/coating somewhere...

Is this an easy DIY replacement, or am I in for some serious labor with removing engine parts near the firewall, interior dash, panels etc??




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Old 01-19-2012, 05:58 PM   #2
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1998 SC2
1998 SW2
Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

I just rebuilt my SC2 and I do not know why the hood release is so dificult to pull.
I lubed everything with motorcycle cable lube and the under-hood stuff with chain lube. ...have to cafefully pop the hood. My last SC2 opened like butta. I believe I reused my old cable, so the problem is in the latch.

You need a complete cable and carefully route it right over the old one.
Once the old one is out, you can feel if it's frayed. (your pic shows it's fried)
That salt air might make it gritty.
You might form a new sheath with JB Weld??? and lube it with a motorcycle cable luber.

Any good bumps to the front of the car? My current SC2 has a storied history** and the bumper hit a few things (some were large).

The hood latch mechanism has slotted holes. Try lightening the pre-load. Mine is as loose as the slots will allow (Maybe something's a little bent, or maybe it was the assembler: me)

**The leading edge of the fuel filter was dinged/scraped/pushed in and one of the unibody frame rails skidded sideways across some unforgiving object

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Old 01-19-2012, 06:54 PM   #3
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Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

Get rid of the latch and cable and just put some hood pins on that hood

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Old 01-20-2012, 11:04 AM   #4
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Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

My father has a few Mopars from late '68 - '69 that have pins on the hood. While I think it looks pretty cool on those muscle cars, this wasn't really the route I was looking to go.

Do you seriously have the pins on your S Series? Or are you trolling me?

I think it would cost me more to put 2 large holes in my hood for the pins than the $16 replacement cable w/ latch.

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Old 01-20-2012, 01:11 PM   #5
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1996 SW2
Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpdraft View Post
Any good bumps to the front of the car? My current SC2 has a storied history** and the bumper hit a few things (some were large).

The hood latch mechanism has slotted holes. Try lightening the pre-load. Mine is as loose as the slots will allow (Maybe something's a little bent, or maybe it was the assembler: me)
This. The relative positions of the latch and striker determine how smoooove the operation is. More resistance just translates to more cable strain/stretch every time you pop the hood. It's also determined by the little height adjuster bumpers. If they're set too high, it adds resistance to the movement of the latch. Too low, and the hood won't "pop" when you release the latch.

Pins lol. Bolt a tachometer to the hood and slap some red-wall tires on it, while you're at it. Dang, the Foreigner tape's jammed....

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Old 01-20-2012, 03:06 PM   #6
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Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jax_1995_SL1 View Post
Do you seriously have the pins on your S Series? Or are you trolling me?

I think it would cost me more to put 2 large holes in my hood for the pins than the $16 replacement cable w/ latch.
No my hood pops fine so no need for pins. I didn't know replacement parts were so cheap. Is that for a new cable or junk yard one? Depending on the hassle of taking one out a of JY car, I might put pins on my hood if the cable ever breaks.

...
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Old 01-20-2012, 03:21 PM   #7
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Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

Saturnparts.net has the cable listed for $16 and change (this does not include UPS ground freight). I've never heard any feedback about them... But, there are a few other sites that list the same part for slightly more than $16 + freight.

Brand spankin' new.

Makes me wonder what a JY would charge me.

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Old 01-20-2012, 04:44 PM   #8
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Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

Yea 16...even 20 (est to your door price)...is pretty cheap for a brand new cable. I hope it doesn't end up like the one in the car now.

...
-Mike

1995 SL2 5spd - Stock/MP2 trans swap - 258,XXX miles - 38mpg @ 65mph
1987 Monte Carlo SS - 5.3/4L80E swap - 13.92@103mph - 19mpg @65mph - needs POSI

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Old 03-19-2012, 09:01 AM   #9
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Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

Follow up.. I went to the local Pick-A-Part and grabbed a replacement cable from the same year and model as my '95 Sl1.

Before I put the previously owned hood release cable in, is there any sort of grease/mica powder/ or lubricant product, I can use to make the replacement cable's sliding movement have less friction (and possibly longer lifespan)?

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Old 03-19-2012, 10:26 AM   #10
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Default Re: Hood Release Cable Repair Question

Powdered mica works, grease does not. Stick one end into a vacuum cleaner and dust mica into the other.

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